Cavatappi alla Siciliana – Corkscrew Pasta with Eggplant, Tomatoes and Anchovies Recipe
CORKSCREW PASTA WITH EGGPLANT, TOMATOES, AND ANCHOVIES
A spoonful of minced anchovies can deepen the flavor of a tomato sauce without making it taste strong or fishy. Perhaps that’s because anchovies are high in umami, the purported “fifth taste” (along with sweet, sour, salty, and bitter), which some describe as “savoriness.” They certainly add a savory background note here; I can’t keep my tasting spoon out of the pan.
Serves 4 to 6
1 pound eggplant
Salt
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
Pinch of hot pepper flakes
1½ pounds ripe plum tomatoes, grated
1½ teaspoons dried oregano
6 to 8 anchovy fillets, minced to a paste
1 pound cavatappi, fusilli, or penne rigate
Preparation instructions:
Cut the unpeeled eggplant into ¾-inch dice. Put it in a sieve set over the sink and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon salt. Toss well with your hands, then let stand for 1 hour, tossing once or twice more. Pat dry on paper towels (do not rinse first).
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over moderately high heat. When the oil is almost smoking, add the eggplant. (If necessary, fry the eggplant in batches to avoid overcrowding the skillet.) Cook, stirring often, until the eggplant is nicely browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.
Add the garlic and hot pepper flakes to the skillet and let sizzle until the garlic starts to color. Add the tomatoes and the oregano, crushing the herb between your fingers to release its fragrance. Bring to a simmer, adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook until the sauce is thick, smooth, and flavorful, 15 to 20 minutes. Add 1 or 2 tablespoons of water occasionally to loosen the sauce and help soften the tomatoes. Remove from the heat and stir in the anchovies and the eggplant. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until al dente. Set aside 1 cup of the pasta water, then drain the pasta and return it to the warm pot over low heat. Add the sauce and toss gently so as not to break up the eggplant, moistening with some of the reserved pasta water as needed. Serve immediately in warm bowls.
Recipe from the “Four Seasons Pasta: A Year of Inspired Recipes in the Italian Tradition” cookbook.